How to choose fine pearl jewelry

Pearls are very alluring and hold a quality that both define elegance and natural beauty. There are more varieties and availability of pearls today than ever before. The “cultured pearl” now rivals with fine diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, and rubies.

Today most pearls are cultured, the culturing process takes from 2 to 3 years and is a very delicate process. The pearl farmers have little control on what the pearl will look like or if the mollusk will reject the nucleus. Not all pearls are fine quality, the end result is ultimately a consequence of nature.

Best quality pearls are determined by luster, nacre thickness and compactness (quality), color, surface perfection, shape, and size.

1.Luster

Luster is one of the first factors to notice. Luster is an intense brightness that illuminates from within the pearl, Luster is created when light strikes the surface of the pearl and rebounds back towards the observer, giving the viewer a bright, shiny and reflective pearl surface to admire.

Luster is graded by evaluating the details of reflected objects seen on the surface of the pearl, AND the crispness of the edges of reflected light sources visible on the pearl. The tighter and more compact the nacre layers are, the sharper and more detailed the reflected objects are, the better the luster is.

Check for luster by examining them under a fluorescent lamp and rolling them from side to side to examine uniform luster. Please examine pearls over a light gray or white material.

Different pearl types display different rates of luster, which corresponds to the average depth of nacre surrounding the internal nucleus.

  • Freshwater pearls are the only cultured pearl type that is 100% solid crystalline nacre. This means that light takes longer to travel through the layers before returning to the viewer, which creates a softer, satiny luster for this pearl type(similar with south sea pearls). Nowdays, very high quality freshwater pearls can approach the high rate of reflectivity of Japanese Akoya.

    Freshwater pearls also often display that beautiful inner glow unique to pearls; the finest Freshwater pearls can look like milk glass ... nearly transparent in certain lighting conditions and with careful observation.

  • South Sea pearls are also famous for their satiny luster.

    South Sea pearls typically display softer, more diffused edges on reflected light sources, and somewhat blurred reflections visible on their surfaces. These pearls are cultured in warm, tropical waters, and so the oysters layer nacre more quickly, with a slightly looser crystalline arrangement than the Akoya.

    Their extremely thick nacre layers average between 2.0-3.0mm thick, so while the sharpness of the luster may not be "mirror-like", South Sea pearls often possess a beautiful, ethereal glow, and long-lasting durability.

  • Tahitian pearls have satiny, softer luster. Reflected light sources may have very slightly blurred to very blurred edges.

    Very high quality Tahitian pearls (AAAA/Gem Quality) can come close to an Akoya mirror-like shine, but these are usually created by younger oysters with a higher metabolism rate, and are most often seen in the smaller pearl sizes under 11.0mm.

    Tahitian pearls are cultured in the warm, tropical waters, so their nacre layers are not as tightly compacted as that of the Akoya. Minimum nacre depth measures 0.8mm around the pearl nucleus.

  • Akoya pearls are famous for their bright, “mirror-like” luster that is very sharp and detailed.

    The cold waters of the oceans in Japan act to slow the oyster’s metabolism, which causes the mollusk to produce nacre more slowly in tightly compacted layers around their mother-of-pearl bead nucleus, creating that trademark glossy shine.

    Akoya pearls have the thinnest nacre layers of all cultured pearls, measuring 0.6mm and under for most (This creates the characteristic that Akoya pearls are not durable and require careful care). 

2. Nacre thickness and compactness

The thickness of nacre determines the longevity of the pearl and the compactness of nacre quality determines how light reflects through the layers of the pearls. High luster and overtone come from high quality nacre and any pearl with these characteristics has quality, thick nacre.

Pearls with thicker nacre layers are more able to withstand daily wear and tear, and resist chipping or peeling around the drill shafts.


When judging nacre look for uniform iridescence, intensity of luster, cracks and peeling, estimate thickness near the drill hole between the nacre and the shell bead (you’ll need a trained eye):


Tahitian pearls have a minimum nacre depth of 0.8mm before qualifying for export, South Sea pearls generally have an average of 2.0-3.0mm of nacre depth and Freshwater pearls are (with some new exceptions) solid nacre. So really it is Akoya pearls that you’ll primarily need to look out for in this area

  • Thick nacre: at least 0.5 mm
  • Medium nacre: between 0.35 and 0.5 mm
  • Thin nacre: 0.25 mm or less

Akoya pearls with thin nacre can still appear shiny, but they lack depth and glow, the interior bead nucleus will show through the thin nacre layers and tinge them white, tan or yellowish color. The pearls are almost plastic looking. 

3. Color

Note their body color and overtones when you choose pearls.
The most desirable and more rare white pearls have rose/pink overtones.
Many natural body colors are available in pearls including white, black, gray, blue, gold, pink, and green. Distinctive colored pearls are rarer and harder to find. Have a qualified gemologist check the pearls to make sure they have not been dyed, especially for costlier pearls like the black or golden pearls.

1. White Pearl Types:  White Akoya, White South Sea and White Freshwater pearls.
Common Overtones:  Rose (a hint of pink), Cream/Ivory (a tint of Vanilla), Silver (closest to a true, bright white).
2. Tahitian Pearl primary(body) color: From pale dove grey to dark charcoal grey to near jet black hues.
Popular overtones : Peacock, Cherry, Blue-Green, Neutral Silver/Steel and more.
3. Golden South-sea Pearls body color:
14K Gold (Medium-Tone, the most common body color. Shimmering with Neutral Gold or Rose overtones, these Golden pearls look great on the largest array of complexions.)
18K Gold (Medium-Deep to Deep).
22/24K Gold (Very Deep, the rarest and most valuable).
10K Gold (Champagne Gold,  mix of very pale, 10K gold, Silver and Rose hues. It is a very light color, very unique and rare)
4. Blue Pearls type: Blue Akoya, Silver-Blue White South Sea, Tahitian pearls.
Common Overtones for Blue Pearls:  True blue Akoya pearls display very strong overtones of Blue, Aquamarine, Rose and Violet. Blue-overtoned Tahitian pearls will feature variations in their overtone range including Green, Blue-Green, Cerulean, Teal, Violet and more.

4. Surface perfection

Examine pearls’ surface for blemishes. Although is best to check for most pearl characteristics on a light background, it is best to check for blemishes on a dark background. Check in both intense and diffused light. No pearls are perfect and small blemishes can be sacrificed for more important quality like nacre and luster. Pearls with higher luster conceal blemishes better.

5. Shape

There are three pearl shapes including symmetrical, spherical, and baroque. The spherical is the rarest and most desirable. Symmetrical pearls include teardrop or pear-shaped pearls and are desirable but usually less expensive than spherical pearls. Baroque pearls are irregularly shaped and often the least expensive.

6. Size

Larger cultured pearls are rarer and more expensive.  

  • Freshwater pearls range in size from 2.0-12.0mm, with average sizes ranging from 6.0-9.5mm. Newer cultured pearl techniques are producing larger bead-nucleated Freshwater pearls like Edison pearls that routinely measure 10.0-16.0mm on average.
  • South Sea pearls range from 9.0mm up through 16.0mm sizes and higher
  • Tahitian pearls range from 8.0mm up through 16.0mm and higher.
  • Akoya pearls range in size from 2mm up to 11mm (9.5mm+ is considered very rare).

For the non-existence of black pearls under 8mm, color treated/dyed Akoya pearls are now available on the market. Keep in mind that the smallest Tahitian pearls are no smaller than 8mm!

 

One more factor to consider in pearls is the precision in matching the pearl quality in a string of pearls. It is important to take all of the above factors in consideration when matching the pearls. Graduated pearls also take careful matching. Pearl matching affects the value of the jewelry because when pearls are not matched properly it takes away from the appearance of the jewelry.

Shop at Uncommon Pearls for easy and hassle-free purchasing. We offer pearls of the highest quality, professional advices, great prices, and incredible customer service!